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글 작성자 :  운영자 2005-10-05 15:56:39 | 조회 : 3255 | 추천 : 0

한국의 전통염색

 

 

  리 선조들이 염색 재료로 활용한 것은 외국에서 수입된 것도 있었지만 대체로 주변에서 흔히 구할 수 있는 식물과 조개껍질, 잿물 등과 같은 지극히 평범한 재료들이었다.

 

하지만 이들의 화학적 성질을 잘 이용 할 수 있었기에 다양한 색상으로 염색하기도 하고 효율적으로 보관하고 세탁하는 일이 가능했던 것인데, 심지어는 홍화로 한번 염색했다가 잿물을 이용해 다시 그 염료를 그대로 뽑아내어 다른 옷에 물들이기까지 했다고 한다.

 

옷을 세탁할 때는 다홍색 옷은 오미자나  매실 물에, 쪽 빛은 녹두물이나 순두부, 초록색은 초를 타서 세탁을 했는데 이는 각 염료들의 화학적 성질을 고려해서 색을 보존하기 위한 방편이었던 것이다.  

 

한국의 전통 염색에서 사용된 염료들은 대부분이 식물성 염료인데, 이들은 한가지 색상만을 내는 단색성 염료와 매염재, 온도, 염색공정 등의 요인에 따라 여러 가지 색을 내는 다색성 염료로 구분된다. 

 

 한국에서는 한가지 색 이상을 혼합해서 염색하는 '혼염'보다는 단일한 염료를 사용해서 채도를 높이는 염색법을 위주로 발달했으며 일본의 전통의상에서 볼 수 있는 것과 같이 다양한 문양을 옷감에 염색하는 납힐(밀납을 칠하여 염색), 문힐(실로 얽어매어 염색), 접문(목판에 의한 염색) 등의 기법은 고려시대가 전성기였고 이 후로는 쇠퇴하여 조선시대부터는 금은니(금박, 은박) 기법만 전해지게 되었다. 

 

 

 

각 색상별 염료와 염색법

 

황색계 - 황련뿌리, 울금뿌리, 황백나무, 치자

치 자

5~6월경에 깊은 산중의 큰 황백나무에서 껍질이 두꺼운 나무의 껍질을 벗긴다. 이때 금속이 닿지 않게 해야 하는데 금속이 닿으면 화학적 성질이 변하기 때문이다. 이 껍질의 표면을 긁어내고 깨끗이 씻어 찬물에 담궈 우러난 물을 미지근하게 만들어 사용한다. 옷감을 그 속에 담궈 하룻밤이 지나 변색하면 염색이 된 것이고, 빛깔을 선명하게 하기 위해서 잿물을 넣기도 한다.


    ▲ 치 자

 

한편 치자를 이용한 염색법은 9월에 치자열매를 채취하여 볕에 말려두었다가 물에 담가 우려낸 다음, 불에 달여서 걸러내고 산을 가해 사용한다. 치자염은 '수의'의 마포를 염색하는데도 많이 이용되었다.

 

 


 

 

▲치자 염에 의한 색상

 

 

 

 

적색계 - 잇꽃(홍화), 소나무껍질, 단목(丹木), 꼭두서니
홍 화

꽃의 줄기와 잎은 연할 때 식용으로 하며, 그 화관을 따 말린 것을 '홍화'라고 한다.
해뜨기 전, 새벽미명에 이슬이 스러지기 전에 딴 꽃을 음지에서 잘 말려  약간의 물과 그릇에 넣고 도꼬마리에 속하는 일년생 초(草) 잎으로 덮어둔다. 꽃에서 진이 나도록 삭힌 다음 무명으로 만든 곁주머니에 담아 깨끗한 물에 여러번 빤다.


    ▲홍 화

 

누런 물이 다 빠지고 엷어지면 뜨겁게 끓인  맑은 물에 적셔내어 누런 물이 완전히 빠지도록 한다. 이 황색소가 빠진 상태를 홍화떡이라 하고 이  홍화떡으로도 염색을 할 수는 잇지만 색상이 선명하지가 않아 주로 부녀자들의 속옷 염색에 쓰였다고 한다.

 

이 홍화떡에 잿물을 밭쳐 염료로 정제하는데, 여기에 쓰는 재는 콩깍지 태운 재가 제일이며 쪽이나 잇꽃의 대를 태운 재가 좋다. 재를 받아둔 지 오래된 것을 쓰면 너무 독하기에 재가 온기가 가시지 않을 만한 때에 시루에 담고  물을 끓여 담아 그 잿물을 홍화떡을 담은 주머니에 붓는다. 첫물을 내리고 이어 초를 치면 꽃물이 나는데, 이를 '생연지' 또는 '정홍'이라고 한다. 이 생연지는 찐득찐뜩하고 진흙 모양을 하고 있는데  여기에다 오미자 국물로 먹을 먹인다. 도중에 두어번쯤 잿물을 치면 꽃물이 돋아 오른다.  이때 오미자의 분량은 홍화가 한 근이면 오미자도 한 근이어야 한다.

 

잇꽃물을 들인 명주를 탈색할 수도 있다. 물들인 명주를 물에 적신 다음 잿물을 넣으면 깨끗이 붉은 물이 빠져 흰색으로 환원해 버린다. 이같이 빠진 잇꽃물은 녹두가루에 스며두었다가 다시 물들일  필요가 있을 때 그 녹두가루에서 잇꽃 물을 짜내어 물을 들이면 단 한 방울도 낭비가 없다.

 

연홍(連紅), 도홍(桃紅), 은홍(銀紅), 수홍(水紅) 등의 다양한 홍색을 홍화떡의 농도를 조절함으로써 염색 할 수 있었다.

 


▲ 홍화 염에 의한 색상


▲ 단목 염에 의한 색상

  

 

 

청색계 - 쪽, 쥐똥 나무
쪽

쪽 물은 여뀌과에 속하는 1년생 초화인 쪽의 잎줄기에서 원료를 얻는다. 쪽풀은 8월 중순 안개가 자욱한 꼭두새벽에 베어내야 하고, 쪽잎이 둥글고 두꺼우며 두툴두툴한 것이 좋고 얇고 긴 것은 쪽물이 덜 날뿐만 아니라 빛깔도 선명하지가 않다.

 

이 쪽 잎을 따서 독에 물을 넣고 담궈두면 일주일만에 쪽물이 스며 나온다. 이때 냇물이나 지하수를 쓰는 까닭은 산성도가 적당하여 쪽물을 우려내는데 가장 좋기 때문이다.


    ▲ 쪽

     

 

이 스며 나온 물 한 섬에 닷되  꼴의 석회를 섞어 수십번 휘저으면  굳은 침전이 생기며 여기에 사용하는 석회는 조개껍질을 옹기에 넣어 1,800℃ 이상의 가마 불에서 구워 만든 것으로 한다. 이때 생긴 침전물을 '남전'이라 부르며 이를 갈아서 보관해 두었다가 쪽물을 들인다.

 

쪽물을 들일 때 날이 더우면 물감이 쉬어 붉은 빛이  나므로 선선한 날을 택하거나 얼음으로 물을 식혀야 한다. 베를 쪽을 갈아 탄 물에  담궜다가 얼음 찬물에 여러번 헹군 다음 다시 얼음물에 담궈야 빛이 선명해진다. 이 때 손을 재빨리 졸려야하고 조금만 느리면 붉은 빛이 돌기 때문에 쪽빛 옷에 붉은 빛이 돌면 마누라 게으르다는 속담까지 생겨났다고 한다. 쪽물을 들인 다음에는 반드시 음지에서 말려야 하고 다 마를 때까지 부채질을 하면 오랫동안 변색되지 않는다.

 

옥색 물감은 갈매나무의 열매에 백반을 섞어 들이기도 하지만 대개는 남색 물을 들이고 난 쪽물에 들인다. 이 남색 끝물에 들이면 짙은 옥색이 되고 옅은 옥색을 원하면 물에 쪽즙을 약간 섞은 다음 여러번 얼음물에 헹구면 된다.

 

 


▲ 남염(쪽)에 의한 색상

     

     

     

    초록색 - 회나무 꽃과 쪽
    초록은 회나무 꽃을 이용한 염색과 쪽의 복합염색으로 이뤄진다.
    회나무의 꽃은 반쯤 피었을 때 따내어 잘 말려둔다. 염색할 때 이 꽃잎을 질그릇에 넣고 잿불로 볶는다.  볶은 꽃잎을  시루에 담고 물을 부어 꽃 물을 받는다. 이 꽃달인 물에 베를 넣어 물을 들인 다음, 앞에서 설명한 쪽물을 들인다. 진한 초록을 원하면 쪽에 두 물을 먹이고 연한 초록을  원하면 쪽에 한 물만 먹인다.  

     

     

     

    녹두 빛 - 왜황련, 황백나무
    녹두 빛의 염료로는 미나리아제비과에 속하는 다년생초 왜황련이 좋지만, 희귀했기 때문에 황백나무 껍질에서 나온 진이 많이 이용되었다. 이 진에다 울금 풀을 섞으면 푸른빛이 돋보이기도 한다. 

     

     

     

    보라빛 - 지치(자초)
    자 초

    보랏빛은 남녀의 보라색을 구별해서 사용했다.
    여자 보라는 옥색에 연지를 먹이는 복합 염색이고, 남자 보라는 연한 쪽 빛에 연지 빛을 먹이는 복합 염색이다. 즉 여자는 붉은 보라를 사용했고, 남자는 푸른 보라를 사용했던 것인데 남자가 여자의 보라색으로 염색한 옷을 입고 있으면 웃음거리가 되었다고 한다.


      ▲자 초

   ◀ 자초 염에 의한 색상


     

     

     

    갈색계 - 감, 밤, 수수
    감

    감을 따서 으깨어 즙을 내고 그 물로 염색한 옷을 갈 옷이라고 한다. 갈옷은 흰색 옷과 더불어 서민의 노동복으로 많이 사용되었으며 제주 지역에서는 현재까지 전해지고 있다. 갈옷의 장점은 감물에 의해 갈색으로 염색되었기 때문에 더러움을 덜타고, 빨래할 때 세제를 쓰지 않아도 때가 잘 빠지며 잔손질을 필요로 하지 않았다. 또 방부작용이 있어 좀이 일지 않고 땀에 강하며 통풍이 잘되고 열전도율이 낮아 노동복의 소재로 적격이었다.


      ▲ 감

    염색은 7-8월경 풋감을 따서 절구로 으깨어 즙을 낸 다음, 옷에 풀을 먹이듯이 풋감 즙과 으깬 찌꺼기에 옷을 넣고 주물러 햇볕에 말린다. 마른 다음에 물을 추기면서 10여일 동안 정성 들여 말리면 황토 빛으로 발색되고 옷감이 빳빳해진다.

       

     

       

    베이지색(타색) - 뽕나무 

     

    베이지 색은 낙타 빛깔 같아서 '타색'으로 불리기도 했으며, 큰 뽕나무 굵은 가지를 베고 그 속의 붉은 고갱이를 원료로 삼았다. 그 고갱이를 떼어내어 약한 불로 진하게 삶아서 물이 배어 나와 진해지면 백반을 약간 탄 다음 이것으로 물들인다.

       

     

       

    검정, 회색 - 먹, 오리나무, 아선약
    회색은 당묵을 잘 갈아 물에 타고 신 초를 쳐서 명주나 비단에다 들이면 약간 붉고 푸른 기운이 도는 짙은 잿빛이 된다. 또 묵향까지 풍겨 거사들이 즐겨 들였다. 명주나 비단에 잇꽃으로 아주  약하게 분홍빛을 들인 다음에 당묵을 들이면 한결 그 빛이 좋아진다고 한다.

     

    출처 : http://blog.naver.com/all_lies/40017935030

     

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